Korean "Surgery" "Lazy" Military Clothing to be Sold in Japan from Fall/Winter 2024

The Korean men's and women's brand "Surgery" will begin selling in Japan from the fall/winter 2024 season. The brand's designs are characterized by elements of remakes, customization, punk, tech, and streetwear, and are created by Kim So-jun, CEO and designer, who is currently a university student but is currently on leave. The theme for fall/winter is "Lazy Military." The brand will propose items that deliberately break down the uniforms that must be worn in a strict manner.

(Matsumoto Nene)

The designs sample American military wear and incorporate drop shoulders, oversized pieces, and two-way designs that express the "irony" and "social contradictions" that are at the core of the brand.

The most representative is the MA-1. It is a two-way jacket with a zipper in the front and buttons in the back, and the men's version is oversized and the women's version is cropped length to add variety. The voluminous fur coat, inspired by the ghillie suit that is used for camouflage and blends into the scenery, is also popular this season.

The brand's iconic motifs are the bone motif and the pants. This time, the bone motif appears in the form of an MA-1 jacket, with padding that makes it look like a human sternum. The pants are made by patchworking the pockets and shirt collars of the MA-1 jacket, creating a baggy silhouette of cargo pants. There are also two-meter-long denim pants that can be worn with sagging hems, and sweatpants. Outerwear ranges from 70,000 to 200,000 yen, while tops and pants range from 30,000 to 50,000 yen.

The brand debuted in August 2019. It started out by dismantling and reconstructing old clothes, and currently operates on two axes: making one-of-a-kind items to order and creating a collection line. With a focus on sustainable manufacturing, Kim said, "I don't need to make money, I just want to keep the brand going for a long time. My goal is to keep it going for 50 years." Globally, the brand is scheduled to be sold in the US and UK from this spring/summer, and in Japan and Hong Kong from autumn/winter.

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